Studio Diary

A study in pink: study on tin chrome pink glazes

Jan 31, 2025Elisabetta Lombardo

If you have ever tried to make just the right shade of pink glaze, you know how tricky it can be.  In the past couple of months, I have been testing out a variety of recipes and variations and while I eventually got close to my goal, I wanted to run a little study on the mix of tin and chrome in glazes. My goal with the initial recipe was to create a pink variation of my icy blue glaze: a soft, pastel, transparent-looking pink that I can use on delicate porcelain pieces with embossed details. To make this kind of pink you really don't need a lot of chrome, so my study focuses on very small chrome quantities, which is something I find very valuable. To reproduce this work you will need a high precision scale that can measure down to at least 0,01g.  Methodology The test is designed as a biaxial blend: I mixed 1000g of dry ingredients, added 1000g of water and then divided up the batch in 9 separate 200g glaze batches in smaller buckets. I only ended up using 7 for this test but you can continue if you so wish. Each of the 7 buckets got an increasing amount of tin. The first has 0,5%, the second 2% and so on. Then I treated each small bucket as the starting point for a line blend test. I added increasing amount of chrome: I started with 0,01%, dipped a test tile, added 0,04%, dipped a test tile and so on. I designed the increments to be small. All tests were fired at cone 6 (1240C). Clay body is Limoges Porcelain. Conclusions With the right base chemistry, there is a point where, between 3% and 5% tin, the chrome additions will result in a pink glaze (as opposed to green). After that, increasing chrome will make the glaze increasingly more purple.  When it comes to the base chemistry, the base glaze needs to contain high levels of calcium, which in this case are given by the wollastonite.  Base Recipe The base recipe is a pre-existing Blush Pink glaze found on Glazy. I chose it because it had a good amount of calcium.  

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A study in pink: study on tin chrome pink glazes

My 5 tips for hand-building with porcelain

Jan 21, 2025Elisabetta Lombardo

Porcelain is a very special material in the ceramics world. Some fear it, some are obsessed with it. I love porcelain because of the canvas it offers for glazes: they look amazing on a pure white background.  That said, porcelain is a difficult material to work with, especially for hand-building. While there is a lot to be said, below are my top 5 tips for hand-building with porcelain. Not all porcelain clay bodies are created equal, so test a variety of them before making a big purchase. Some porcelain clay bodies are more plastic than others (it all boils down to kaolin contents and types of kaolin). If you are not interested in high translucency, you will be able to find some plastic porcelain clay bodies that are easier to work with. You can also learn to make your own clay body.  Wedge, wedge, wedge. Wedging clay is important, and even more so for porcelain. I spend a lot longer wedging porcelain clay before I start working, to help all the particles mix up and align.  When building from slabs, you will notice porcelain dries a lot quicker than other clay bodies. I tend to work faster to avoid it cracking. I discourage all my students from overusing water when hand-building with stoneware and this is even more true for porcelain. While porcelain dries quicker, it also slumps and looses shape more easily, so do not go overboard with water. Dry very slowly: uneven drying will cause cracks. So make sure that your pieces are drying very very slowly (under plastic or in a specific container), a lot slower than your usual stoneware pieces. 

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My 5 tips for hand-building with porcelain